The Novel Forms of Hyaluronic Acid and Applications in Cosmetic Products

Authors

  • Fotini Mellou ACADEMIC SCHOLAR , University of West Attica
  • Evangelia Theodosiou Τομέας Αισθητικής και Κοσμητολογίας, Τμήμα Βιοϊατρικών Επιστημών, Πανεπιστήμιο Δυτικής Αττικής, Αγίου Σπυρίδωνα 28, 12243, Αιγάλεω
  • Athanasia Varvaresou Τομέας Αισθητικής και Κοσμητολογίας, Τμήμα Βιοϊατρικών Επιστημών, Πανεπιστήμιο Δυτικής Αττικής, Αγίου Σπυρίδωνα 28, 12243, Αιγάλεω, Εργαστήριο Χημείας-Βιοχημείας-Κοσμητολογίας, Τμήμα Βιοϊατρικών Επιστημών, Πανεπιστήμιο Δυτικής Αττικής, Αγίου Σπυρίδωνα 28, 12243, Αιγάλεω
  • Spyridon Papageorgiou Τομέας Αισθητικής και Κοσμητολογίας, Τμήμα Βιοϊατρικών Επιστημών, Πανεπιστήμιο Δυτικής Αττικής, Αγίου Σπυρίδωνα 28, 12243, Αιγάλεω, Εργαστήριο Χημείας-Βιοχημείας-Κοσμητολογίας, Τμήμα Βιοϊατρικών Επιστημών, Πανεπιστήμιο Δυτικής Αττικής, Αγίου Σπυρίδωνα 28, 12243, Αιγάλεω
  • Apostolos Papadopoulos

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.60988/pj.v36i1.25

Keywords:

Υαλουρονικό οξύ, παράγωγα Υαλουρονικού οξέος, καλλυντικά προϊόντα, Hyaluronic acid, Hyaluronic acid derivatives, cosmetic products

Abstract

Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a natural component of the body and especially of the skin, which exerts an important role in its hydration, regeneration and healing process.
HA has shown a wide range of pharmacological activities such as anti-inflammatory, immunomodulatory, antitumor, antidiabetic, antiaging and skin repair. Moreover, HA contributes in regulating various biological processes and maintaining homeostasis in the body.
However, with increasing age, HA is not reproduced as quickly as it is degraded, contributing to the atrophy, dehydration and loss of elasticity of the skin. In addition, exposure to UV radiation, pollutants and stress lead to increased HA degradation and a subsequent decrease in its protection from free radicals, contributing further to premature aging.
The great potential of HA in cosmetic science has stimulated the interest of cosmetic industry which, through new technologies, can produce hyaluronic acid and several novel derivatives in order to increase both its residence time in various human tissues and its anti-inflammatory properties. The present study includes different types and ways of incorporating HA into cosmetic products to optimize its dermal delivery as well as to increase the action of this cosmetic ingredient.

Author Biographies

Fotini Mellou, ACADEMIC SCHOLAR , University of West Attica

Laboratory of Chemistry-Biochemistry-Cosmetic Science, Department of Biomedical Sciences, University of West Attica, 28 Agios Spyridonos Str., 12243 Egaleo

Evangelia Theodosiou, Τομέας Αισθητικής και Κοσμητολογίας, Τμήμα Βιοϊατρικών Επιστημών, Πανεπιστήμιο Δυτικής Αττικής, Αγίου Σπυρίδωνα 28, 12243, Αιγάλεω

Division of Aesthetics and Cosmetic Science, Department of Biomedical Sciences, University of West Attica, 28 Agios Spyridonos Str., 12243 Egaleo

Athanasia Varvaresou, Τομέας Αισθητικής και Κοσμητολογίας, Τμήμα Βιοϊατρικών Επιστημών, Πανεπιστήμιο Δυτικής Αττικής, Αγίου Σπυρίδωνα 28, 12243, Αιγάλεω, Εργαστήριο Χημείας-Βιοχημείας-Κοσμητολογίας, Τμήμα Βιοϊατρικών Επιστημών, Πανεπιστήμιο Δυτικής Αττικής, Αγίου Σπυρίδωνα 28, 12243, Αιγάλεω

aDivision of Aesthetics and Cosmetic Science, Department of Biomedical Sciences, University of West Attica, 28 Agios Spyridonos Str., 12243 Egaleo
bLaboratory of Chemistry-Biochemistry-Cosmetic Science, Department of Biomedical Sciences, University of West Attica, 28 Agios Spyridonos Str., 12243 Egaleo

Spyridon Papageorgiou, Τομέας Αισθητικής και Κοσμητολογίας, Τμήμα Βιοϊατρικών Επιστημών, Πανεπιστήμιο Δυτικής Αττικής, Αγίου Σπυρίδωνα 28, 12243, Αιγάλεω, Εργαστήριο Χημείας-Βιοχημείας-Κοσμητολογίας, Τμήμα Βιοϊατρικών Επιστημών, Πανεπιστήμιο Δυτικής Αττικής, Αγίου Σπυρίδωνα 28, 12243, Αιγάλεω

Division of Aesthetics and Cosmetic Science, Department of Biomedical Sciences, University of West Attica, 28 Agios Spyridonos Str., 12243 Egaleo
Laboratory of Chemistry-Biochemistry-Cosmetic Science, Department of Biomedical Sciences, University of West Attica, 28 Agios Spyridonos Str., 12243 Egaleo

Apostolos Papadopoulos

Division of Aesthetics and Cosmetic Science, Department of Biomedical Sciences, University of West Attica, 28 Agios Spyridonos Str., 12243 Egaleo
Laboratory of Chemistry-Biochemistry-Cosmetic Science, Department of Biomedical Sciences, University of West Attica, 28 Agios Spyridonos Str., 12243 Egaleo

References

Juncan A.M., Moisă D.G., Santini A., Morgovan C., Rus L.L., Vonica - Țincu A.L., Loghin F. Advantages of Hyaluronic Acid and Its Combination with Other Bioactive Ingredients in Cosmeceuticals. J. Molecules 26, 2021.

Kaprinis K. Απεικονιστική και βιοχημική διερεύνηση των ολιγοσακχαριτών και πολυσακχαριτών του υαλουρονικού οξέος κατά την παραγωγική διαβητική αμφιβληστροειδοπάθεια και τη ρηγματογενή αποκόλληση του αμφιβληστροειδούς. Αριστοτέλειο Πανεπιστήμιο Θεσσαλονίκης (ΑΠΘ), Σχολή Επιστημών Υγείας, Τμήμα Ιατρικής, Τομέας Αισθητηρίων Οργάνων, Κλινική Β’ Οφθαλμολογική, 2016.

Salwowska N.M., Bebenek K.A., Żądło D.A., Wcisło-Dziadecka D.L. Physiochemical properties and application of hyaluronic acid: a systematic review. J. Cosmet. Dermatol. 15, 520-6, 2016.

Fallacara A., Baldini E., Manfredini S., Vertuani S. Hyaluronic Acid in the Third Millennium. Polymers 10, 701, 2018.

Sudha P.N., Rose M.H. Beneficial Effects of Hyaluronic Acid. Adv. Food Nutr. Res. 72,137–76, 2014. PMID: 25081082

Majewski G., Rodan K., Fields K., Falla T. Characterization of bound water in skin hydrators prepared with and without a 3D3P interpenetrating polymer network. J. Skin Res. Technol. 25, 150-7, 2019.

Bukhari S., Roswandi N., Waqas M., Habib H., Hussain F., Khan S. et al. Hyaluronic acid, a promising skin rejuvenating biomedicine: A review of recent updates and pre-clinical and clinical investigations on cosmetic and nutricosmetic effects. J. Biol. Macromol. 120, 1682–95, 2018.

Shikina E.V., Kovalevsky R.A., Shirkovskaya A.I., Toukach Ph.V. Prospective bacterial and fungal sources of hyaluronic acid: A review. J. Comput. Struct. Biotechnol. 20, 6214–36, 2022.

Knopf-Marques H., Pravda M., Wolfova L., Velebny V., Schaaf P., Vrana N.E. et al. Hyaluronic Acid and Its Derivatives in Coating and Delivery Systems: Applications in Tissue Engineering, Regenerative Medicine and Immunomodulation. Adv. Healthc. Mater. 5, 2841–55, 2016.

Essendoubi M., Gobinet C., Reynaud R., Angiboust J.F., Manfait M., Piot O. Human skin penetration of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights as probed by Raman spectroscopy. J. Skin Res.Technol. 22, 55–62, 2016.

Trabucchi E., Pallotta S., Morini M., Corsi F., Franceschini R., Casiraghi A. et al. Low molecular weight hyaluronic acid prevents oxygen free radical damage to granulation tissue during wound healing. Int. J. Tissue React. 24, 65–71, 2002.

Chen M., Gupta V., Anselmo A.C., Muraski J.A., Mitragotri S. Topical delivery of hyaluronic acid into skin using SPACE-peptide carriers. J. Control. Release 173, 67–74, 2014.

Kong M., Chen X.G., Kweon D.K., Park H.J. Investigations on skin permeation of hyaluronic acid based nanoemulsion as transdermal carrier. Carbohydr. Polym. 86, 837–43, 2011.

Tomihata K. Preparation of cross-linked hyaluronic acid films of low water content. Biomater. 18, 189–95, 1997.

Fallacara A., Marchetti F., Pozzoli M., Citernesi U.R., Manfredini S., Vertuani S. Formulation and Characterization of Native and Crosslinked Hyaluronic Acid Microspheres for Dermal Delivery of Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate: A Comparative Study. Int. J. Pharm. 10, 254, 2018.

Qiu Y., Ma Y., Huang Y., Li S., Xu H., Su E. Current advances in the biosynthesis of hyaluronic acid with variable molecular weights. Carbohydr. Polym. 269, 118320, 2021.

Picotti F., Fabbian M., Gianni R., Sechi A., Stucchi L., Bosco M. Hyaluronic acid lipoate: Synthesis and physicochemical properties. Carbohydr. Polym. 93, 273–8, 2013.

GlycodermTM (P) The Polyvalent Moisturizer with long-lasting Effect. Available from: https://www.perlena.it/wp content/uploads/2016/02/Glycoderm_2011-07-14.pdf

Low molecular weight hyaluronic acid 150-1300 kDa CHINA COMPLIANT INCI: SODIUM HYALURONATE. Available from: https://www.contipro.com/images/ProductLists/HYSILK.pdf.

Smooth and not sticky feeling Forms a crosslinked network on the skin surface Long-lasting moisturizing effect because of its good stability Increases skin elasticity and reduces skin roughness Excellent protective film with long-lasting moisturizing effect on the skin Hyaluronic Acid Elastomer. Available from:https://biotechnologia.pl/uploads/product/leaflet/734289/Hyacross__brochure.pdf.

Moh S.H., Cho S.H., Kim Y.J., Cho J.C., Lee B.W. Preparation and Application of Low Molecular Weight Sodium Hyaluronate, (2012) In: International Conferences, GST and SIA 2012, November/ December 2012, Jeju Island, Korea, Green and Smart Technology with Sensor Applications, Springer-Verlag Berlin Heidelberg, 174–180.

Moulik S.P., Paul B.K. Structure, dynamics and transport properties of microemulsions. Adv. Colloid Interface Sci.78, 99–195, 1998.

Alkrad J.A., Mrestani Y., Neubert R. Development and characterization of microemulsions containing hyaluronic acid. Eur. J. Pharm. Sci. 86, 84–90, 2016.

Lee Y.I., Lee S.G., Kim J., Choi S., Jung I., Lee J.H. Proteoglycan Combined with Hyaluronic Acid and Hydrolyzed Collagen Restores the Skin Barrier in Mild Atopic Dermatitis and Dry, Eczema-Prone Skin: A Pilot Study. Int. J. Mol. Sci. 22, 10189, 2021.

Camci-Unal G., Cuttica D., Annabi N., Demarchi D., Khademhosseini A. Synthesis and Characterization of Hybrid Hyaluronic Acid-Gelatin Hydrogels. J. Biomacromolecules 14(4), 1085–92, 2013.

Daminato E., Bianchini G., Causin V. New Directions in Aesthetic Medicine: A Novel and Hybrid Filler Based on Hyaluronic Acid and Lactose Modified Chitosan. Gels 8, 326, 2022.

Chen F.,Yang J.,Yang S.,Wu Y. Hydrolysed zinc hyaluronan, a novel anti-acne candidate, China Surfactant Deterg. Cosmet. 53, 165-70, 2023.

Widgerow A.D., Ziegler M.E., Garruto J.A., Robinson D.M., Palm M.D., Vega J.H., Bell M. Designing topical hyaluronic acid technology—Size does matter…J Cosmet Dermatol. 21, 2865–70, 2022.

Meunier M, Scandolera A., Chapuis E. , LapierreL., Sandré J., Brunner G., Lovchik M., Reynaud R. The anti-wrinkles properties of sodium acetylated hyaluronate. J Cosmet Dermatol. 21, 2749-62, 2022.

Downloads

Published

03-04-2024

Issue

Section

Review Articles